Nazaré

A two-and-a-half-hour cork and eucalyptus tree-lined drive north of Lisbon lies the seaside town of Nazaré. Nestled along the Costa da Prata (Silver Coast) sits this vibrant and lively oceanside fishing village turned resort.

Nazaré consists of three neighborhoods: Praia (along the main beach), Sitio (the old village sitting atop the cliffs), and Pederneria (another hilltop village). Praia and Sitio are linked by the funicular railway, which takes passengers from the Praia neighborhood up to the top of the cliffs.

Seven Skirts of Nazare

One of the first things I noticed while walking down the main drag towards the ocean was the women in full skirts with embroidered aprons and headscarves. Turns out these ladies weld quite a bit of power in this town. As the story goes, way back in the day, the fishermen’s wives would wear skirts made of seven heavy layers of flannel in order to keep them warm while they waited on the beaches for their husbands to return from a day of fishing on the sea. The “Seven Skirts of Nazaré”, as they are known, are constructed of seven different colored layers of fabric, which represent seven days of the week, seven colors of a rainbow, seven ocean waves in a set, and other spiritual and mythological seven references. During the summer months, these ladies appear to run apartment rentals in town; rumor has it they are also in charge of the beach cabana rentals.

Salt and Sand

The long sandy beach in Nazaré is beautiful and the main draw of this charming town. With colorful cabanas off to the north side, the long narrow fishing boats to the south at the marina, and front and center, sun worshippers, tourists, and locals sitting under umbrellas and frolicking in the ocean. There is a shop-lined boardwalk along the oceanfront where pedestrians stroll, buy mostly cheap touristy goods during the day, and enjoy the bustling promenade with a fun street fair atmosphere at night.

Mercado Nazaré

Every morning but Monday, farmers, fishermen, and bakers bring their goods to the Nazaré Mercado. It is a huge authentic market where locals come to buy fruits, veggies, fresh seafood, bakery items, and flowers. Grab a coffee at a café and then walk across the street to peruse the Nazaré Mercado before heading to the beach for the afternoon.

Lose Yourself

It’s easy to get lost in the maze of small streets once you leave the main thoroughfares, but eventually, you’ll find your way out. Get a bit of the real-life flavor of Nazaré by winding your way through the narrow lanes where colorful laundry hangs from windows drying in the breeze, and women in traditional dress fan small hibachis on the cobblestones below. One woman was very happy to show me how she used her straw fan to keep the flame high, cooking the silver fish to her liking.

There are tiny family-owned restaurants tucked in along the streets – these are the gems you want to have a quiet breakfast or lunch at. Try Taberna do Ti Águste for a hearty breakfast of eggs, sausage, and chips.

There are other wonderful restaurants to choose from in the main part of town. We loved Tosca Gastrobar. The tapas-style menu had a delicious assortment of dishes to pick from and a friendly staff. I had a fabulous salad at this restaurant that was the inspiration for this Goat Cheese and Honey Salad recipe. Café Sical was a small coffee shop and bakery where you could enjoy an espresso and a pasteis de nata, a delicious traditional Portuguese custard tart, or a lovely sandwich while sitting street-side people watching.

Surfing
Nazaré is famous for the tallest wave surfed, which was recorded at Praia do Norte, the beach north of the Sitio neighborhood, on November 8, 2017. Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa, broke the previous record by surfing a big wave of 24.4 m (80 ft).

Want to take a surfing class while you are visiting Nazaré? Check out the Nazaré Surf School.

Don’t miss-

Sitio Neighborhood
If you’re feeling really fit and ambitious, hike up the steps from Nazaré to Sitio, or if not, take the funicular up to the Sitio neighborhood to see some of the most spectacular views of Nazaré. While there, visit the Shrine to Our Lady of Nazaré and the Ermida da Memória Chapel, famous for the legend of the miracle that Our Lady made to prevent the horse of the nobleman from leaping over the precipice to their death.

Funicular
Take the funicular from the town of Nazaré up to the top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean and town. Visit the Sitio neighborhood, the Shrine to Our Lady of Nazaré, and the Ermida da Memória chapel.
Runs daily from 7 AM to 9 PM.

Mercado da Nazaré
An authentic market filled mostly with locals.
Open from 7 AM to 1 PM every day but closed on Mondays.
Avenida Vieira Guimaraes, 2450, Nazaré 2450-000, Portugal

Praia do Norte
The beach north of the Sitio neighborhood has become famous for its big wave surfing. An underwater canyon, Nazaré Canyon, causes interference with incoming swells creating extraordinarily tall waves. It is a gorgeous stretch of beach worth visiting.